Photographing the northern lights in Iceland is not difficult because the camera settings are mysterious. It is difficult because the conditions are moving: the aurora changes shape, clouds move in, wind shakes the tripod, batteries die in the cold, and headlights from other travelers can ruin a perfect exposure.

This guide is written for real travelers, not only professional photographers. If you have a mirrorless camera or DSLR, you will find practical manual settings. If you only have a phone, there is a full phone section too, because modern phones can capture the aurora surprisingly well when they are kept still and used properly.

Quick answer: best northern lights camera settings

Use manual mode, shoot RAW, set focus manually to infinity, use a tripod, start around ISO 1600-3200, aperture f/2.8 or wider, and a shutter speed between 5 and 15 seconds. If the aurora is moving fast, shorten the shutter. If it is faint, raise ISO or lengthen exposure carefully.

Mode
Manual
Auto mode usually fails in the dark.
File type
RAW
Gives much more room to edit shadows and color.
Lens
Wide
14-24mm is ideal on full frame; wide phone lens works too.
Aperture
f/1.8-f/2.8
Use the widest clean aperture your lens allows.
ISO
1600-3200
Lower it for very bright aurora.
Shutter
5-15 sec
Fast aurora needs shorter exposures.

Before You Think About Settings

The biggest mistake is treating aurora photography like a settings problem. Settings matter, but location and sky conditions matter more. You need darkness, clear skies, a stable camera, and enough patience to wait for the lights to strengthen. A perfect camera will not photograph aurora through thick cloud.

Start with the same basics as aurora watching: travel between September and March, get away from city lights, check cloud cover, check the aurora forecast, and avoid unsafe winter driving. The general Northern Lights in Iceland guide explains forecasting and locations in more detail; this page focuses on photography.

Best Camera Settings for Northern Lights

Start with a simple baseline and adjust from there. The aurora is not one brightness. It may be a faint grey-green glow on the horizon, or it may explode overhead and move so fast that a long exposure turns it into a blurry green blanket.

SituationStarting settingsWhat to adjust
Faint auroraISO 3200, f/2.8, 10-20 secUse a longer exposure carefully. If stars trail or the aurora smears, shorten the shutter and raise ISO.
Normal visible auroraISO 1600-3200, f/2.8, 5-10 secThis is the safest starting range for most Iceland nights.
Strong moving auroraISO 800-1600, f/2.8, 2-6 secShorten the shutter to preserve shape and detail in the curtains.
Bright moon or snowISO 800-1600, f/2.8, 4-8 secLower ISO if the foreground becomes too bright.

Focus manually

Autofocus is unreliable in the dark. Before you start shooting, switch to manual focus and focus on a bright star, a distant light, or the moon if it is visible. Zoom in on the screen, adjust until the point of light is as small as possible, then leave focus alone. Do not trust the infinity mark blindly; many lenses focus slightly past infinity.

Use a short enough shutter

A common beginner mistake is using 25 or 30 seconds for every aurora photo. That can work when the lights are faint and slow, but it often turns active aurora into a soft blur. In Iceland, when the lights start dancing overhead, try 2-6 seconds. You may need higher ISO, but the shape will look much better.

How to Photograph the Northern Lights With a Phone

You do not need a professional camera to take a northern lights photo. Recent iPhones, Samsung Galaxy phones, Google Pixel phones, and other modern phones with night mode can capture aurora if the lights are visible and the phone is kept still. The key is stability. A handheld phone photo is usually the reason people fail.

Phone settings quick answer

Use Night Mode or Pro Mode, turn off flash, clean the lens, support the phone on a tripod or solid surface, use a 3-10 second exposure if available, lower exposure if the sky is too bright, and use a timer so touching the screen does not shake the phone.

Phone step-by-step

  • Turn on Night Mode, Astro mode, or Pro Mode if your phone has it.
  • Set the phone on a small tripod, against a rock, on a car roof, or on a backpack. Do not hand-hold it.
  • Turn off flash. Flash will only light up nearby objects and annoy other people.
  • Wipe the lens. A tiny smear becomes a soft halo around stars and lights.
  • If you can control exposure time, start around 3-10 seconds.
  • If the image looks washed out, reduce exposure or tap the sky and drag brightness down.
  • Use a 2-second timer or remote shutter so the phone does not move when you press the button.
  • Keep the phone warm in a pocket between shots. Cold drains batteries quickly.

Phones often make aurora look brighter and greener than it looks to your eyes. That is normal. The camera is collecting light for several seconds. Take the photo, but also put the phone down and watch the sky. The memory matters more than the screen.

Best Iceland Locations for Aurora Photos

The best aurora photo location has three things: dark sky, a safe place to stand, and an interesting foreground. Empty sky photos get boring quickly. Iceland gives you mountains, churches, lava fields, waterfalls, glacier lagoons, coastlines, and old farms. Use them.

Near Reykjavik Try Grotta, Kleifarvatn, Thingvellir, or darker pullouts outside the capital. Read the Reykjavik guide if you are based in town.
Snaefellsnes Kirkjufell, lava fields, coastlines, and dark western skies make the Snaefellsnes Peninsula one of the classic aurora photo areas.
South Coast Waterfalls and black sand beaches are dramatic, but be careful near surf and icy paths. See the South Coast guide.
Jokulsarlon Icebergs, glacier ice, and reflections can be incredible on clear nights. Plan with the Jokulsarlon guide.
North Iceland Akureyri, Myvatn, and smaller fjord towns often have darker skies and strong winter conditions. Start with the Akureyri and North Iceland guide.
Westfjords Dark and dramatic, but remote in winter. Only go if road and weather conditions make sense.

Composition Tips

A northern lights photo is usually stronger when it shows Iceland, not just the aurora. Put something in the foreground: a mountain shape, a small church, a person with a headlamp, a parked car, a waterfall, a coastline, or reflected light on water. Keep the horizon level and leave enough sky for the aurora to move through the frame.

If the moon is out, do not assume the night is ruined. Moonlight can brighten the landscape and make the foreground easier to photograph. A full moon can overpower faint aurora, but a partial moon can be useful. Snow also reflects light, which can help foregrounds look clean and detailed.

Weather, Clouds, and Safety

Cloud cover is often more important than KP. A KP 6 aurora behind cloud is useless for photography, while a KP 2 display under clear dark sky can still produce a good image. Check the cloud forecast on vedur.is, then check road conditions on road.is before driving at night.

Do not stop in the road for a photo. Use proper pullouts, car parks, and safe viewpoints. In winter, icy shoulders, blowing snow, and poor visibility can turn a simple photo stop into a problem. If the weather is bad, stay closer to your accommodation or book a northern lights tour instead of driving far in the dark.

Gear Checklist

Tripod Essential for cameras and strongly recommended for phones.
Wide lens A 14-24mm or similar wide lens makes composition easier.
Spare batteries Cold weather drains batteries faster than you expect.
Headlamp Use a red light mode if possible so you do not ruin night vision.
Lens cloth Snow, mist, and sea spray can soften every photo.
Warm layers Photography means standing still, so dress warmer than for a normal walk. The Iceland packing list helps here.

Common Mistakes

  • Using autofocus: the camera hunts in the dark and produces soft images.
  • Using too long a shutter: strong aurora becomes a green blur.
  • Skipping the tripod: even night mode phones need stability.
  • Only chasing KP: clear sky beats a high forecast behind clouds.
  • Standing near headlights: car lights and headlamps can ruin exposures.
  • Forgetting warm clothes: cold photographers rush, shake, and quit early.
  • Driving too far at night: Icelandic winter roads deserve respect.

Simple Editing Tips

Edit gently. Increase contrast a little, pull down highlights if the aurora is blown out, lift shadows enough to reveal the foreground, and adjust white balance if the image looks too yellow or too blue. Avoid pushing saturation so far that the aurora looks fake. Iceland already does enough drama on its own.

FAQ

Can you photograph the northern lights with a phone?

Yes. Modern phones with Night Mode, Astro mode, or Pro Mode can photograph the northern lights if the aurora is visible and the phone is kept still. Use a tripod or solid support, turn off flash, clean the lens, and use a timed exposure if possible.

What ISO should I use for northern lights photos?

Start around ISO 1600-3200. Use lower ISO such as 800-1600 when the aurora is bright, the moon is strong, or snow makes the foreground very reflective. Raise ISO only when the aurora is faint and the shutter cannot be longer.

Do I need a tripod for aurora photography?

Yes, for cameras. For phones, a tripod is strongly recommended, although a rock, backpack, fence post, or car roof can work in a pinch. The camera or phone must stay still during the exposure.

What month is best for northern lights photography in Iceland?

September to March is the main season because Iceland has enough darkness. October, November, February, and March often give a good balance of darkness, road access, and aurora chances, but clear skies matter more than the calendar.

Where near Reykjavik can I take northern lights photos?

Grotta, Kleifarvatn, Thingvellir, and darker areas outside the city are better than central Reykjavik. Strong aurora can sometimes be visible from the city edges, but light pollution makes photography much harder.

The Bottom Line

The best northern lights photo is usually the result of simple settings, good preparation, and patience. Use a stable camera or phone, focus carefully, watch the clouds, and choose a safe place with an interesting foreground. If the lights appear, take your photo. Then take a minute to stop adjusting settings and simply look up.