Safety-first hiking guide

Fimmvörðuháls is a serious mountain route, not a casual South Coast add-on. Weather, transport and gear matter here. This guide focuses on the practical decisions that decide whether the hike is enjoyable, miserable or unsafe.

Fimmvörðuháls is one of the most dramatic day hikes in Iceland — and that is saying something in a country full of extraordinary landscapes. The trail crosses the high mountain pass between two of Iceland's most famous glaciers, Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull, passing through lava fields formed during the 2010 volcanic eruption that grounded flights across Europe. On a clear day, the views stretch from the South Coast all the way to the Westman Islands out at sea.

It is not an easy walk. But for hikers who are reasonably fit and properly prepared, it is one of the strongest day hikes in Iceland: waterfalls, black volcanic ridges, fresh lava from the 2010 eruption, glaciers on both sides, and a final descent into Þórsmörk.

Hiker crossing snow on the Fimmvörðuháls trail between glaciers
Fimmvörðuháls is a real mountain crossing. Even in summer the high section can hold snow, wind, and poor visibility.
The trail in a nutshell

Most people hike from Skógar in the south — starting at the famous Skógafoss waterfall — up to the mountain hut at Fimmvörðuháls, then down into the valley of Þórsmörk. You either return by bus or arrange transport from both ends. Very few people do it as an out-and-back. If you are building a wider route around this area, pair this with the South Coast Iceland guide.

Quick Planning Links

Use these before committing to the hike, especially if Fimmvörðuháls is only one part of a larger Iceland itinerary.

The Route

The classic direction is south to north — starting at Skógar and finishing in Þórsmörk. This makes the most of the dramatic ascent alongside the waterfalls from the south, and the descent into the lush green valley of Þórsmörk at the end.

Skógafoss waterfall at the start of the Fimmvörðuháls hike
Most hikers start at Skógafoss. The first climb begins beside the waterfall before following the river upstream.
1
Skógar to the waterfall canyon (0–5 km)
The trail begins at Skógafoss. You climb a staircase alongside the falls and then follow the river upstream through a gorge with over 20 smaller waterfalls. This section is genuinely spectacular and relatively easy — a good warm-up for what is to come.
Waterfall canyon above Skógafoss on the Fimmvörðuháls route
The river above Skógafoss is not filler before the real hike. It is one of the best waterfall walks in Iceland.
2
The long climb to the plateau (5–15 km)
After the waterfall canyon the trail steepens significantly. You climb up onto an open moorland plateau, leaving vegetation behind and entering a stark, wind-scoured landscape of rock and moss. This is the most physically demanding section. The weather can change rapidly here — even in summer, snow and fog are possible.
3
The 2010 lava fields (15–20 km)
The trail passes directly through the lava fields created by the Eyjafjallajökull eruption in 2010. The contrast is extraordinary — jet-black lava against white snow and the two glaciers flanking you on either side. Two new craters, Magni and Móði (named after the sons of Thor), are visible from the trail. This is the most otherworldly section of the hike.
Fresh black lava fields on the Fimmvörðuháls route from the 2010 eruption
The 2010 lava fields are the emotional centre of the route: black, raw, exposed, and still young by Icelandic standards.
Second fissure eruption on Fimmvörðuháls in April 2010
The 2010 eruption changed this route. The trail now crosses lava from the same volcanic episode that made Eyjafjallajökull famous worldwide.
4
Descent into Þórsmörk (20–25 km)
The final section drops steeply into the valley of Þórsmörk — a sheltered, lush green woodland valley that feels completely different from the barren plateau above. The contrast is striking. The trail ends at the mountain hut at Básar or Húsadalur, where you can catch a bus back to Reykjavík or Skógar.
View over Þórsmörk valley at the end of the Fimmvörðuháls hike
The descent into Þórsmörk is the payoff: after rock, snow, and lava, the route drops into a sheltered green valley.

Practical Information

If you would rather do this with a guide — strongly recommended in shoulder season or for first-time Icelandic hikers — there are reputable operators that run the trail with experienced guides and arranged transport. See guided Fimmvörðuháls hikes →

Getting to the trailhead

Skógar is about 150 km east of Reykjavík along the Ring Road — roughly a two-hour drive. There is no public bus that goes directly to Skógar from Reykjavík in time for an early start, so most people either drive or join an organised hiking tour. From Þórsmörk you can take a highland bus back in summer. The route crosses rivers and requires specialised vehicles. Do not try to drive a normal rental car into Þórsmörk; our car rental guide explains why Icelandic highland access and insurance rules matter.

Highland bus on a rough Icelandic mountain road
Þórsmörk transport is not normal rental-car territory. Plan the bus or a proper transfer before you commit to the hike.

The mountain hut at Fimmvörðuháls

Roughly halfway along the trail, at the highest point of the pass, sits a small mountain hut run by Ferðafélag Íslands (the Icelandic Touring Association). It sleeps around 27 people and has basic facilities — sleeping bag accommodation, a small kitchen, and a toilet. Booking in advance is essential in summer. Many hikers split the route across two days, staying overnight here and descending to Þórsmörk the following morning.

Two-day option

Splitting the hike over two days is highly recommended if you are not an experienced hiker. Day one: Skógar to the mountain hut (around 5–6 hours). Day two: the hut to Þórsmörk (around 4–5 hours). This lets you enjoy the lava fields and the descent in daylight without rushing.

What to wear and bring

The weather on Fimmvörðuháls is unpredictable even in midsummer. The trail crosses exposed terrain above 1,000 metres where wind, rain, and even light snow are possible at any time of year. You need proper waterproof hiking gear, including waterproof trousers. Hiking poles are strongly recommended for the steep descent into Þórsmörk. For a wider clothing checklist, use the Iceland packing list.

Hiker with backpack in Icelandic mountain landscape
This is not a jeans-and-sneakers hike. Waterproof layers, real boots, food, water, and offline navigation all matter.
  • Waterproof jacket and trousers
  • Warm mid-layer (fleece or down jacket)
  • Sturdy waterproof hiking boots with ankle support
  • Hiking poles
  • At least 2–3 litres of water (you can refill from streams on the trail)
  • High-energy snacks and lunch — there is nowhere to buy food on the trail
  • Sunscreen and sunglasses (the snow reflects UV strongly)
  • Headlamp (in case you run late)
  • Map or downloaded offline GPS track
Do not underestimate this hike

Fimmvörðuháls is regularly attempted by people who are not properly prepared. The trail is long, exposed, and the weather can turn dangerous quickly. Check the Icelandic Met Office forecast (vedur.is) the morning of your hike. If the forecast shows strong winds or poor visibility on the mountain, postpone. No view is worth risking your safety.

Best Time to Go

The trail is typically accessible from late June through to the end of September. Before June, the high section is usually covered in deep snow and the route requires crampons and experience with winter mountain travel. July and August are the most popular months — the weather is most stable, the days are longest, and the midnight sun means you have effectively unlimited daylight. September is quieter and the autumn colours in Þórsmörk are extraordinary, but the weather becomes less reliable. For the wider seasonal picture, read the best time to visit Iceland guide.

Avoid attempting Fimmvörðuháls in winter unless you are an experienced mountaineer with full winter gear. People have gotten into serious trouble on this trail in bad conditions.

Combine it with Laugavegur

Fimmvörðuháls is often hiked as the final section of the famous Laugavegur trail — a four to five day trek from Landmannalaugar to Þórsmörk. If you have the time, adding Fimmvörðuháls as a fifth day and finishing at Skógar makes for one of the great long-distance hikes in the world. The combination is increasingly popular and considered by many to be the finest multi-day hiking route in Europe.

Fimmvörðuháls FAQ

How hard is the Fimmvörðuháls hike?

It is challenging. The route is around 25 km with a long climb, exposed high ground, possible snow patches, fast-changing weather and a steep descent into Þórsmörk. Fit hikers can do it in one long day, but it is not a casual waterfall walk.

When is the best time to hike Fimmvörðuháls?

Late June to September is the normal season. July and August usually offer the best combination of daylight, trail access and transport options. September can be beautiful and quieter, but weather becomes less reliable.

Can you drive a normal rental car to Þórsmörk?

No. Þórsmörk access involves highland roads and river crossings. Use a highland bus, proper super jeep transfer or organised tour. A normal rental car is not suitable, and attempting river crossings can void insurance.

Do you need a guide for Fimmvörðuháls?

Experienced hikers can do it independently in good summer conditions with proper gear, navigation and transport sorted. A guide is sensible in shoulder season, poor visibility, uncertain weather or if you are not used to Icelandic mountain routes.

The Bottom Line

Fimmvörðuháls rewards effort in a way that few hikes anywhere can match. The combination of waterfalls, glaciers, fresh lava fields, and the descent into the green valley of Þórsmörk packs more landscape variety into a single day than most people see in a week of hiking elsewhere. Go prepared, check the weather, and give yourself enough time to enjoy it. This is Iceland at its most elemental.